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EV vs Gas Savings Calculator

Free EV vs gas savings calculator: compare annual fuel cost, monthly savings, tax credit and years-to-payback before buying your next car.

Enter Values

mi/yr

Average US driver logs about 13,500 miles per year.

mi/kWh

Most EVs get 3–4 miles per kWh; EPA window-sticker MPGe converts here.

$/kWh

US average residential rate is about $0.15/kWh; public fast charging can be $0.30–$0.50.

mpg

Combined city/highway MPG of the gas car you would otherwise buy.

$/gal

Local pump price per gallon of regular unleaded.

$

Negotiated out-the-door price of the electric vehicle, before tax credit.

$

Out-the-door price of the closest gas-powered equivalent you would compare against.

$

US IRA credit up to $7,500 for qualifying new EVs; $4,000 for used EVs. $0 if you do not qualify.

Result

EV Annual Energy Cost
$514.29
Gas Car Annual Fuel Cost
$1,680.00
Annual Fuel Savings (EV vs Gas)
$1,165.71
Monthly Fuel Savings
$97.14
Net Price Premium After Tax Credit
$7,500.00
Payback Period
6.4 years
5-Year Net Advantage
$-1,671.43
10-Year Net Advantage
$4,157.14

An electric vehicle can slash your fuel bill, but it almost always carries a higher sticker price than the gas car sitting next to it on the dealer lot. The only question that actually matters is whether the money you save on energy each year is large enough to pay back that premium — and how long it takes. This EV vs gas savings calculator does exactly that: it compares your annual energy cost, folds in the federal and state tax credit, and tells you the years-to-payback so you can decide whether going electric makes financial sense for your commute, not someone else's.

Adjust any slider and every figure on the card updates instantly. Raise the miles you drive, bump up local gas prices, or drop in the actual out-the-door quotes you have in hand, and the payback period moves with you.

How to Use

  1. Enter Miles Driven Per Year. The US Department of Transportation pegs the average at about 13,500, but if you are a road-warrior commuter or you mostly work from home, this number is the single biggest lever on your savings.
  2. Set EV Efficiency in miles per kWh. Most new EVs land between 3 and 4 miles per kWh; look at the EPA window sticker and divide the MPGe by 33.7 to convert.
  3. Type your Electricity Rate. If you mostly charge at home, use your residential rate (around $0.15/kWh nationally). If you rely on public fast chargers, bump this to $0.30–$0.50/kWh — public charging erodes most of the cost advantage.
  4. Enter the Gas Car Fuel Economy (combined MPG) and your local Gasoline Price per gallon.
  5. Add the two purchase prices: your quoted EV Purchase Price and the Comparable Gas Car Price. Use the out-the-door numbers you would actually sign, not MSRP.
  6. Put in the Federal / State EV Tax Credit you actually expect to claim. The IRA offers up to $7,500 on qualifying new EVs and $4,000 on used ones; if you do not qualify, set this to $0.

The result card shows your annual EV energy cost, annual gas fuel cost, the annual savings, the monthly equivalent, the net price premium after the tax credit, and — the number you really came for — the payback period in years. It then projects the 5-year and 10-year net advantage so you can see whether the math stays favorable beyond the payback date.

The Math Behind the Savings

The calculation is deliberately transparent. Your EV energy spend is the number of miles divided by how many miles the car squeezes from one kilowatt-hour, multiplied by what you pay for electricity:

EV annual cost = (miles ÷ miles per kWh) × $ per kWh

For a gas car the same logic uses gallons instead of kilowatt-hours:

Gas annual cost = (miles ÷ MPG) × $ per gallon

The annual fuel saving is the difference between those two lines. The payback period then divides the net price premium — the extra you paid for the EV, minus any tax credit — by that annual saving:

Payback = (EV price − gas car price − tax credit) ÷ annual fuel savings

Worked example on the default numbers: 12,000 miles, a 3.5 miles-per-kWh EV at $0.15/kWh, and a 25-mpg gas car at $3.50/gallon. The EV uses about 3,429 kWh per year for an energy bill of $514. The gas car burns 480 gallons for a fuel bill of $1,680. That is $1,166 a year, or about $97 a month, back in your pocket. If the EV is $15,000 more expensive but you claim the full $7,500 credit, your net premium is $7,500 — and at $1,166 a year the payback lands right around 6.4 years. After that, every year of driving is pure savings.

Why Miles Driven Is the Lever That Moves Everything

The gap between an EV and a gas car widens the more you drive. A driver who puts 5,000 miles a year on a parked-in-the-suburban-second-car barely spends anything on fuel in either vehicle, so the thousands of dollars of price premium never pays back. A rideshare driver or long-haul commuter putting 30,000 miles a year, by contrast, can clear the premium in under three years even on modest fuel-price assumptions.

This is why the generic "EVs are always cheaper" and "EVs never pay back" takes you read online are both wrong: they are averages across a population, not your number. Punch in your own mileage.

How the Tax Credit Changes the Picture

The federal clean-vehicle credit is a direct reduction in your tax bill, not a rebate, and it is capped at the amount of federal tax you actually owe. For many buyers the full $7,500 (new) or $4,000 (used) survives, but the credit does not reduce the price at the dealership the way a rebate would — you claim it when you file. State incentives, HOV-lane access, and lower maintenance costs (no oil changes, fewer brake pads thanks to regenerative braking) all tilt the math further in the EV's favor, but this calculator deliberately keeps the model tight to fuel cost and purchase price so you are not double-counting benefits you cannot actually collect.

Examples

Example 1 — The default commuter. 12,000 miles per year, a compact EV rated at 3.5 mi/kWh charged at home at $0.15/kWh, versus a 25-mpg gas sedan at $3.50/gallon. The EV costs $514 a year to run on energy; the gas car costs $1,680. Annual saving: $1,166. With a $15,000 price gap and the full $7,500 federal credit, the net premium is $7,500 and payback is 6.4 years.

Example 2 — The high-mileage commuter. Someone driving 30,000 miles a year in a very efficient 4.0 mi/kWh EV on cheap $0.12/kWh electricity, versus a 30-mpg hybrid at $3.00/gallon. The EV energy bill is $900; the gas bill is $3,000. That is $2,100 a year saved. On a $12,000 price gap with a $7,500 credit, the net premium is $4,500 and payback collapses to roughly 2.1 years — the EV is effectively free after that.

Example 3 — The low-mileage second car. A household that puts only 5,000 miles a year on a spare car. Even with a strong $7,500 credit, the annual saving is around $486, and a $7,500 net premium takes more than 15 years to recover. In that scenario the EV premium almost certainly does not pencil out on fuel savings alone; buy the gas car.

Example 4 — The luxury EV comparison. A $100,000 electric luxury sedan against a $50,000 gas equivalent, with the EV no longer qualifying for any tax credit. Even at a comfortable $1,166 annual saving, the $50,000 net premium takes over 40 years to pay back. The calculator handles magnitudes this large without breaking out the long-division by hand.

FAQ

How much do you actually save driving an electric car?

On the default numbers — 12,000 miles a year, $0.15/kWh home charging, and $3.50/gallon gas — you save about $1,166 a year, or roughly $97 a month, on energy alone. That figure scales linearly with miles driven and with the gap between your local electricity and gasoline prices.

How long until an EV pays for itself?

Payback equals the net price premium (EV price minus the comparable gas car price, minus the tax credit) divided by the annual fuel savings. On a typical compact EV with the full $7,500 federal credit, expect 5–8 years. High-mileage drivers see 2–4 years; low-mileage second cars may never pay back on fuel savings alone.

Do I use my home electricity rate or the public charger rate?

Use whichever you actually charge on. If you charge 90% at home overnight, your residential rate (about $0.15/kWh nationally) is the right number. If you depend on DC fast chargers, bill them at $0.30–$0.50/kWh — at that price the EV's energy advantage shrinks dramatically and payback stretches out by several years.

Does the $7,500 federal tax credit apply to every EV?

No. The US clean-vehicle credit is capped at $7,500 for new qualifying EVs and $4,000 for used EVs, but it is subject to MSRP caps, assembly-location rules, buyer-income limits, and the amount of federal tax you actually owe. Use the IRS eligible-vehicle list to confirm your specific model; if you do not qualify, set the credit field to $0.

What about maintenance savings on an EV?

EVs have no oil changes, no transmission fluid, and brake pads that last much longer thanks to regenerative braking — real-world studies put EV maintenance at roughly half the cost of a gas car over the life of the vehicle. This calculator intentionally excludes maintenance to keep the fuel-only comparison honest; stacking it on top would make the EV look even better, but you can add $300–$600 a year of maintenance savings mentally if you want the fuller picture.

Is an EV worth it if I drive less than 10,000 miles a year?

Often no. The fuel savings scale with miles, while the price premium is fixed. Under 10,000 miles a year, the annual saving is typically under $1,000, so even a $7,500 tax-credit-adjusted premium takes a decade or more to recover. Run your own numbers through the calculator rather than relying on a generic "yes" or "no."

Disclaimer

This EV vs gas savings calculator is provided for informational purposes only and does not constitute financial, tax, or automotive advice. Estimates are based on the inputs you enter and the standard annual-operating-cost formula; actual fuel and electricity prices, tax-credit eligibility, vehicle pricing, and maintenance costs vary by location, vehicle, model year, and tax situation. Always confirm tax-credit eligibility directly with the IRS and verify your final purchase numbers with a licensed dealer and tax professional before making a buying decision.

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Disclaimer

Results are estimates for illustration only. Verify important figures independently.